Essential Tools for a Plumbing Tool Kit

Grips, wrenches and turning tools

Pipe wrenches — often called Stilsons after a common brand — are the core gripping tool for threaded iron and steel pipework and fittings, with serrated jaws that bite as pressure is applied. Most plumbers carry at least two sizes so one can hold a fitting steady while the other turns.

Adjustable spanners cover the wide range of nut sizes found on compression fittings, tap connectors and cylinder unions, and a couple of sizes — a smaller one for tight spaces and a larger one for bigger unions — cover most jobs. A basin wrench, with its long shaft and pivoting jaw, is the practical way to reach the back-nuts on taps and mixers fitted through a basin or sink, where a standard spanner simply cannot get in.

Cutting, deburring and jointing

A pipe cutter gives a cleaner, squarer cut than a hacksaw on copper and plastic pipe, which matters for a good seal on both compression and push-fit fittings. A pipe slice is a compact ratchet-style cutter useful for cutting pipe in confined spaces where a full-size cutter will not fit or turn.

A deburring tool or a half-round file removes the internal and external burr left after cutting, which is essential before pushing pipe into a push-fit fitting, as a burr can damage the internal O-ring and cause a leak that is hard to trace later.

• PTFE tape seals threaded joints such as tap connectors, valves and cylinder fittings
• Jointing (pipe) compound is used on some threaded joints, particularly with fittings not suited to tape alone
• A blowtorch is needed for end-feed and solder-ring copper joints, used with appropriate flux and solder

Measuring and general hand tools

A spirit level is essential for anything involving falls or level fitting, from a shower tray to a radiator bracket, and a torpedo-length level is often more practical than a long level in tight plumbing spaces. A tape measure is used on almost every job, for pipe runs, appliance clearances and fitting centres alike.

• A set of screwdrivers, both flathead and Pozidriv/Phillips, for isolation valves, fixings and appliance panels
• Pliers, including a pair of long-nose pliers for tight spaces
• A hacksaw as a backup cutting tool for materials a pipe cutter cannot handle
• A torch or head torch for working under sinks, in lofts and in cupboards

Essentials vs specialist kit

Not every tool needs to be bought on day one. The table below separates the kit that earns its place in almost every job from equipment that is worth adding once a particular type of work becomes regular.

Specialist kit worth adding

A press tool jointing system speeds up first fix considerably and removes the naked flame risk of soldering, but the tool and jaw sets represent a real outlay, so it tends to make sense once press-fit becomes a regular part of the work rather than an occasional job. A pipe freezer lets a section of pipe be worked on without draining down the whole system, useful on occupied properties or larger systems where a full drain-down is impractical.

A pipe bender produces neater bends than elbow fittings on copper first-fix runs and reduces the number of joints in a run, which can mean fewer potential leak points. An inspection camera is valuable for diagnosing blockages or checking pipe runs behind finished walls and floors without opening them up unnecessarily. Power tools — a combi drill, SDS drill for masonry, and an angle grinder or reciprocating saw for cutting — come up regularly enough on most jobs to be worth carrying, but choice of brand and specification depends on the type of properties usually worked in.

Care, storage and safety

• Keep cutting edges clean and lightly oiled to prevent rust between jobs
• Store a blowtorch and gas canister upright and away from heat sources in the van
• Wear eye protection when cutting, grinding or using a press tool
• Check PPE such as gloves and knee pads regularly, as worn PPE offers reduced protection